More reasonably priced, good quality, and the same tiny sights. If for some reason you want a Mauser, try looking at the Turkish variety. Ammo for the Swiss runs about $35 for a 60 round GP 11 battle pack, and 6.55 Swede all over the place and still reasonable. Prices for the Swiss and Swedes are still quite reasonable there's a ton of 'em you can get over the intewebs, and if you have an 03 FFL ($30 and a month's wait) you don't need to go through an 01 FFL and pay additional fees. Swedes are as well made, or better made in my opinion, than the German Mausers, shoot better, and don't have any Nazi stampings (I refuse to pay a premium for a Nazi stamped weapon, and really prefer not to deal with any of such-marked artifacts. Both are fantastic accurate, the Swiss has one of the best triggers ever and you can mount a scope on the K 31 without drilling and tapping. If I were going to buy a first milsurp rifle, it would be either a Swiss K 31 or Swede. I'm selling off most of my Mausers (keeping my 1916 Danzig, 88 Commission rifle, and VZ 24) 'cause of aging eyes and find myself shooting my Swedish Mauser and Swiss 1911 and K 31 a lot these days.
These are handling and storage marks accumulated over the years together with the preservatives of the day that, in some cases, tended to change the hue and wear of the bluing. "In short, this Mauser may not be your best choice for a first rifle." German Mauser K98 Rifle Your rifle is in near-new condition and shows only ‘garrison marks’. In short, this Mauser may not be your best choice for a first rifle. Collector value makes that questionable today. I used to buy Mausers very inexpensively then drill and tap their receivers and notch their stocks for a Williams FP98, Lyman SME or Redfield peep. Without ideal light and lots of time they are difficult to fire accurately with. Remember, this is a 300 yard rifle, not a pistol. Was this action painted to cover up pits and patina like those that show best in your close up of the nose cap?Īlso, since I recall you no longer have 19 year old eye balls, whether you want to struggle with Mauser's tiny sights on what may be your first rifle is an issue. Speaking of value, look closely at your close up of the receiver ring. Even so, a rifle with excess head space should be priced accordingly. That can make excess head space moot so long as you label the reloads specifically for use in one rifle. While you're at it you can set the case shoulder to fit what ever length chamber your rifle and bolt combination have.
With the gauges in hand a head space check takes only a few minutes.Īssuming you reload, it is very easy to convert inexpensive surplus. I sporterized a few, hunted with a few, and shot targets with a ton of them, but I have little interest in collector details like stamps.įirst, if the bolt number does not match insist on a head space check by a gunsmith or assume it has excess head space and is unsafe with factory ammo. I have owned and reloaded for a lot of surplus bolt actions.
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